Beijing Bicycle Blues

It seems impossible that Beijing traffic could actually get worse–and crazier–than it already is but now we’ve shifted from something like 1000 new cars on the streets every day to 1500, believe me, it is getting worse by the week. No news there, except I still do wonder sometimes why the city government doesn’t just impose fees for new car buyers like Shanghai, where it can cost up to $6000, more than the price of some new cars. I actually asked the vice mayor this question a while ago but, perhaps not surprisingly, didn’t get much of any answer. At any rate, sitting stalled this morning, I saw a slightly mad looking Westerner (probably an “independent traveler” as the industry terms them) dressed in a long, trailing coat and a deerstalker hat, its loose ear flaps flapping madly, speeding past the long lines of cars on a baby blue bicycle that had an advertising insert slottedinto the frame. This was the first time I’d seen someone riding one of the bikes provided on loan for a fairly nominal charge (around 3 dollars an hour but much cheaper for longer periods) by an entrprenneur as part of a scheme to try and encourage visitors to see the city close up–and ease traffic congestion. It’s a great idea, though in its infancy (a number of other cities have the same scheme, notably Paris, though on a much larger scale so it’s easier to pick up the bike in one place and drop it off somewhere else). The bicyclist seemed to be having a grand time and stopped to consult a map. I rolled down my window to ask what he thought of the scheme but he was off before i could say anything and soon disappeared into the distance, leaving me in precisely the same spot…for some time. Beijing is almost completely flat (except for Jingshan, Coal Hill behind the Forbidden City, built from earth excavated for its construction) and ideal for bicycling. Having had two bikes of my own stolen, however–and spending increasing amounts of time stuck in my car, I think I’ll go and inquire about the loan scheme. It might have a greater chance of success if they issue gas masks along with the city maps, though.