Three Stars For a Chinese Chef, At Last

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As my colleague Liam Fitzpatrick has volubly complained in the past, the powers that be of world cuisine, or rather the self-appointed powers that be, don’t seem to register that Chinese cooking is right up there with French and Japanese as one of the world’s greats. He was particularly miffed that a purported ranking of the world’s best restaurants didn’t include a single Chinese restaurant in Asia. Now however no less an authority than the Michelin Guide, the grandaddy of them all, has made up for that oversight, at least partially. In its new Hong Kong Guide, published for the first time, it awards its coveted (that’s a huge understatement) three stars to Lung Keen Heen, the Chinese restaurant in Hong Kong’s Four Seasons Hotel. More accurately, as these things are always chef driven, the three stars go to the restaurant’s chef, Chan Yan Tak. More power to him I say. And since the days of expense account blowouts are sadly over, if anyone is feeling generous, I’d be happy to be taken there the next time I am in Hong Kong. Meantime, please come to Beijing Mr. Michelin. Our restaurant scene is blossoming and we need some validation as too many people still think it’s all about greasy Peking Duck and the odd dumpling.

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