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	<title>WorldCategory: Hungary &#124; World &#124; TIME.com</title>
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		<title>WorldCategory: Hungary &#124; World &#124; TIME.com</title>
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		<title>When Locavores Are Nationalists: Hungary Is Pig-Proud</title>
		<link>http://world.time.com/2013/02/18/when-locavores-are-nationalists-hungary-is-pig-proud/</link>
		<comments>http://world.time.com/2013/02/18/when-locavores-are-nationalists-hungary-is-pig-proud/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 18 Feb 2013 07:15:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Lisa Abend / Budapest</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hungary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[locavorism]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mangalica]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mangalica festival]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pigs]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[The light snow that was falling in Budapest’s Szabadsag square on Feb. 9 didn’t stop Dora Gyulai and her friends from wedging themselves into a crowded picnic table and digging their icy fingers into a plate piled high with cured bacon and sausage. Along with thousands of others, the three university students had gone to the park for the city’s annual Mangalica festival, a celebration of an indigenous pig only recently rescued from near extinction. “Mostly we came for something good to eat,” Gyulai said about the animals, a few examples of which were napping nearby. “But I also like the fact that they’re Hungarian.” There’s no doubt that Mangalica tastes good. Thickly marbled with fat, the pigs’ rich, dense meat heightens the flavor of the sausages and stews that are an integral part of Hungarian cuisine. (The Hungarians do not cure the Mangalica so there is no ham to compare with the prized products of Spain and Italy; but in general, while the meat lacks the nutty flavor of Spain’s Iberico — because the Mangalica are not fed on acorns — the Hungarian pork is smokier.) The breed’s revival, like that of heirloom tomatoes and Berkshire pigs in the U.S., is part of a larger food revolution that emphasizes the local over the global, and the artisanal over the industrial. But in a country still grappling with the transition from communism, the pigs have taken on a symbolic importance that exceeds their gustatory pleasures. In Hungary, Mangalica makes an interesting case with which to inquire: When does locavorism become political? (MORE: The Locavore’s Illusions) Short-legged and stout, with thick curly hair that makes them look like pig-shaped teddy bears, Mangalica (they are called Mangalitsa in the U.S., where they have been imported) were once the dominant breed in Hungary and surrounding areas, where they were especially popular for the copious, clean-tasting lard they produced. But the pigs are slow-growing and require ample land on which to roam — factors that made them ill suited to the efficiency-obsessed collective farms of the latter half of<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=world.time.com&#038;blog=19871253&#038;post=69466&#038;subd=timeglobalspin&#038;ref=&#038;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
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	<primary_category>Hungary</primary_category><primary_category_link>http://world.time.com/category/europe/hungary/</primary_category_link><featured_image>http://timeglobalspin.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/int-mangalica-hungary-0217.jpg?w=240</featured_image>
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			<media:title type="html">Indigenous Mangalica long-haired piglets</media:title>
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			<media:title type="html">courtneysubramanian</media:title>
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